Milies
The Atmosphere of Milies
Arriving in Milies feels like stepping onto a movie set, where the whistle of the vintage steam train echoes through ancient olive groves and apple orchards. The village square is a scene of quiet sophistication, shaded by massive plane trees and surrounded by grand mansions that whisper of a wealthy past. It carries an intellectual air, distinct from the beach resorts, inviting visitors to explore hidden libraries and folk museums tucked within stone alleyways. Whether you are sipping coffee by the historic station or hiking the rails, the village exudes a sense of living history that is both nostalgic and vibrant.
HISTORY TO PRESENT DAY
The School of the Nation The history of Milies is defined by intellect rather than warfare. In the 18th century, it became the headquarters of the “School of Milies,” a prestigious academy founded by the scholars Anthimos Gazis, Gregorios Konstantas, and Daniel Philippidis. During the dark years of Ottoman occupation, this village was a beacon of the Greek Enlightenment, printing books and teaching science and philosophy when such things were rare. Today, you can visit the Public Library of Milies, which houses thousands of rare books, maps, and scientific instruments from this golden era, preserving the village’s legacy as a place of learning.
The Revolution of 1821 While it was a place of books, Milies was also the spark of the rebellion in Magnesia. It was here, in the Church of Agioi Taxiarches, that Anthimos Gazis officially raised the flag of the Greek Revolution for the Pelion region in May 1821. The village served as the command center for the uprising, utilizing its strategic mountain position to coordinate attacks against the Ottoman garrisons. Monuments in the main square now stand as silent sentinels to these priest-warriors who traded their quills for swords to liberate Thessaly.
The Acoustic Miracle The spiritual heart of the village is the Church of Pammegistoi Taxiarches, built in 1741. From the outside, it looks modest—deliberately built without a bell tower to avoid provoking the Ottoman rulers. However, the interior is an engineering masterpiece. The builders installed 48 overturned clay jars in the domes and walls to create a perfect acoustic system that amplifies the chanting of the priest while suppressing the noise of the congregation. It remains fully active today, drawing visitors who come to whisper in the corners and test the legendary sound engineering of the 18th-century masons.
The Arrival of the “Moutzouris” In the late 19th century, Milies was transformed by the arrival of the Pelion Railway, designed by the Italian engineer Evaristo de Chirico (father of the famous surrealist painter Giorgio de Chirico). The “Moutzouris” (Smudgy) steam train connected the mountain production centers to the port of Volos, crossing the famous De Chirico Bridge, a masonry masterpiece that is curved in plan. The railway station at Milies was the end of the line, turning the village into a bustling commercial hub for the export of oil, fruit, and timber.
Milies Today: A Cultural Hub Today, the train has shifted from carrying cargo to carrying travelers. The Moutzouris runs seasonally, bringing hundreds of visitors daily who ride the narrow-gauge tracks through the forest to arrive at the Milies station. Beyond the train, the village has reinvented itself as a center for alternative tourism. The old mule tracks have been cleared and marked, making Milies a primary hub for hikers exploring the Centaur’s Mountain. In late summer, the village hosts the “Milies Apple Festival,” celebrating the local harvest with traditional music and dance, proving that while it honors its intellectual past, it is still very much a living, working village.